The Cartier Tank has been undoubtedly one of the most iconic watch designs in modern history. Ever since its inception in the 1920s, it has been the synonym of timeless elegance and beauty.
Over its century-long history, the Tank family expanded significantly, both in numbers and in design variations, thanks to the limitless imagination of Cartier designers.
So much have already been written about the more popular variations. Though one Tank, and in my opinion THE most interesting Tank, remain rarely known to most people - the Tank Basculante.
The Design
The name Basculante came from the French word “basculer”, which means to tip up, topple over, or swing - quite a self-explanatory name considering the design functions:
The actual watch case was shrank down and suspended on a pivot frame from its waist, allowing 360-degree spin when the frame is in open position. When closed, the frame nest snuggly inside the outer case, preserving the uniformed-body design of the original Tank.
The crown was moved to 12 o’clock, flattened and inset to stay flush with the inner case. The cabochon sapphire was detached from the crown, and set into the top center frame, subtly and intuitively hinting on how to activate the spinning mechanism.
Another notable visual cue was the case polishing. As is the case with the original Tank, Cartier continued the high-polished glossy finish on Basculante’s inner and outer case; yet then contrasted it with soft, vertical brushing on the pivoting frame, creating rhythm and dynamic to imply its movement.
The clever implementation of the frame also enabled the watch to be used as a travel clock as well, when taken off from the wrist and placed on the night stand. Though it might be hard for us in modern days to imagine hotel rooms without clocks, it was indeed a common need of the era.
The Origin
To better understand the origin of Basculante, we must first set the historical background:
Whether it’s the “Roaring Twenties” in the America, or the “Golden Twenties” in Europe, the 1920s witnessed tremendous economical growth and technological development.
Specifically in the watch world, various efforts were made to protect the glass from breaking as people embark on a more modern, active lifestyle. In our specific case, Cartier took on this challenge with the help of a familiar partner… you’ve guessed it, Jaeger LeCoultre!
This fruitful collaboration resulted in multiple innovative designs, among which was the Tank Basculante.
The patent was filed in July 1932, detailing the principle of swing in the Tank Basculante. During the same year, the first Basculante was produced and came to market, as indicated in the Cartier Archive.
The Comparison
I guess it would hard to avoid a comparison between the Basculante and the Reverso, Jaeger LeCoultre’s poster child and frankly, the first thing comes to mind of the reversible watch category.
Despite the fact that they shared some of the same c reative genealogy, the two models took different approaches in achieving the same goal.
As explained above, the Basculante solved the problem by placing the pivot axis waist-level, then adding a folding frame hinged on the bottom to provide room for a vertical spin.
On the contrary, the Reverso implemented the pivot axis along the watch’s side, in combination with a sliding mechanism, enabling the watch to be secured in both positions.
It’s hard argue if one approach is necessarily better than the other… Given that they were both invented almost a hundred years ago, I think they are both genius, groundbreaking milestones in design history!
A Few Words on Owning a Basculante
My personal preference though, mainly comes down to the size. At just a hair over 6mm thick, the Basculante fits infinitely better on my tiny Asian wrist.
I’m sure I can still rock the Reverso with leather jacket and combat boots. But let’s be honest, its 7.4mm thickness definitely makes it less versatile for daily wear. You’d be amazed how big a difference that 1.3mm makes.
Being the first serious watch I’ve ever owned, until this day, my Tank Basculante still remains my #1 go-to for all occasions. It clearly carries on the elegance and sophistication from the rest of its Tank family, yet at the same time dynamic and playful.
Taking a walk in our backwoods with my Basculante and my dog Bear
They say we are what we wear. In that case, I do see myself in the Basculante - just like the watch, there’s much more to me than the first glance.
Extension Reads:
Cartier: The Tank Watch, by Franco Cologni
Le Temps de Cartier, by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti, and French Nencini
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